服装系统设计方法论研究

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作　者：	吕学海
出版社：	清华大学出版社
丛编项：
标　签：	计算机/网络行业软件及应用

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ISBN：	9787302458371	出版时间：	2016-12-01	包装：	平装-胶订
开本：	32开	页数：	368	字数：

内容简介

暂缺《服装系统设计方法论研究》简介

作者简介

　　作为山东工艺美术学院服装设计专业的首届毕业生，吕学海在入学之前曾在企业做过多年的服装生产与技术管理工作，有着丰富的实践经验。1987 年毕业留校任教以来，长期致力于设计艺术与工艺技术方面的教学研究，编纂了多部教材，获得了多项省级优秀教学成果及科研成果奖。他乐于求知，勤于探索，治学耕耘，勤学不辍，在近天命之年考取了苏州大学博士研究生，面壁四载，完成了博士论文并取得学位。本书也是在其博士论文基础上经过补充和完善形成的又一成果。天道酬勤，吕学海的该项研究经过层层筛选于2009 年获得国家社科基金艺术学项目立项。应该说，这一研究改变了将“设计”与“工程”分离的研究方式，为服装设计理论建设和方法改良做了有益的尝试；提出了以“艺术赋形”为主导的技术思想，就实现设计艺术与科学技术的有机结合提出了一种比较新的研究思路；同时，基于图形学原理的服装技术试验，从一个新的角度对服装结构原理与计算方法进行了求证，强化了技术原理与设计造型之间的内在联系；通过对设计过程要素的整合，建立了服装系统设计过程模型，为设计者提供了一种普遍联系的思维引导工具。【媒体评论】评论【目录】目录第1章绪论 ·······001 1.1 研究背景及意义 ··································004 1.1.1 从“量体裁衣”到系统设计 ····················005 1.1.2 服装系统设计研究的理论价值 ·················007 1.1.3 构建系统设计方法的实践意义 ·················010 1.2 研究内容及理论基础 ····························012 1.2.1 一般系统论思想 ···································013 1.2.2 设计过程理论 ····016 1.2.3 传统造物观念 ····019 1.3 研究思路与基本观点 ····························023 1.3.1 设计总体上是一个逻辑的过程 ·················023 1.3.2 整体观念是设计过程的核心 ····················026 1.3.3 科学化是设计方法发展的趋势 ·················027 1.4 国内外研究现状分析 ····························030 1.4.1 国外研究现状 ····030 1.4.2 国内研究现状 ····034 1.4.3 存在问题分析 ····036 1.5 研究方法及论文组织 ····························036 1.5.1 研究方法 ··········036 1.5.2 继承与创新 ·······038 1.5.3 内容组织 ··········039第2 章服装设计的一般过程及知识框架······················· 0432.1 设计过程的概念辨析 ···························· 044 2.1.1 设计与过程 ·······045 2.1.2 过程与阶段 ·······046 2.1.3 阶段与程序 ·······048 2.2 服装系统设计的构成要素 ······················ 049 2.2.1 设计对象与产品定义 ·····························050 2.2.2 设计问题与设计内容 ·····························052 2.2.3 设计原则与设计任务 ·····························054 2.2.4 设计知识与设计流程 ·····························058 2.2.5 设计创意与技术实现 ·····························061 2.2.6 设计评价与方案优化 ·····························064 2.3 服装系统设计的相关研究 ······················ 067 2.3.1 服装功能与属性 ···································068 2.3.2 服装形态与元素 ···································071 2.3.3 服装结构与工艺 ···································074 2.3.4 服装色彩与材料 ···································077 2.3.5 设计艺术与科学技术 ·····························083 2.3.6 设计观与方法论 ···································085 2.4 服装系统设计的运行模式 ······················ 089 2.4.1 串行模式 ··········091 2.4.2 并行模式 ··········093 2.4.3 循环模式 ··········094 2.4.4 系统模式 ··········095 2.5 服装系统设计的一般过程 ······················ 096 2.5.1 任务分析与目标确认 ·····························0972.5.2 设计调研与资料收集 ·····························0992.5.3 需求分析与产品定位 ·····························1012.5.4 设计创意与视觉表达 ·····························1042.5.5 设计评价与方案优化 ·····························1062.5.6 结构设计与纸样制作 ·····························1072.5.7 工艺设计与样衣试制 ·····························1092.5.8 综合评价与生产准备 ····························· 1102.5.9 批量生产与市场反馈 ····························· 111 小结························· 111第3 章服装创意的理论基础与生成机制························ 1153.1 创意理论的产生与发展 ························· 1173.1.1 创意概念的内涵 ··································· 1173.1.2 创意方法的研究 ··································· 1193.1.3 服装创意的本质 ···································1213.2 服装创意的相关理论 ···························· 1223.2.1 “魔岛”与“万花筒”理论 ····················123 3.2.2 “拼图”与“组合”理论 ·······················1253.2.3 “迁移”与“变通”理论 ······················1263.2.4 等价转换理论 ····1273.3 服装创意的基本方法 ··························· 1303.3.1 集思广益的智力激励法 ··························1303.3.2 科学理性的特征列举法 ·························1323.3.3 变陌生为熟悉的综摄法 ··························1343.3.4 由设问引发创意的核对单法 ····················137 3.3.5 基于系统观的形态分析法 ·······················1383.3.6 师法自然的生物模拟法 ··························1403.3.7 感性工学之语义微分法 ·························1413.4 服装创意的思维特征 ···························· 1443.4.1 感性与理性的结合 ································1453.4.2 发散与收敛的循环 ································1473.4.3 直觉与灵感的捕捉 ································1503.4.4 联想与想象的延伸 ································1523.4.5 综合与系统的梳理 ································1563.5 服装创意的生成机制 ···························· 1573.5.1 服装创意的素材 ···································1583.5.2 服装创意的条件 ···································1603.5.3 服装创意的原理 ···································1623.5.4 服装创意的引导 ···································1693.6 服装创意的一般过程 ···························· 1733.6.1 提出问题阶段 ····1743.6.2 创意酝酿阶段 ····1753.6.3 创意孵化阶段 ····1763.6.4 创意完成阶段 ····1773.6.5 创意完善阶段 ····1793.6.6 创意表达阶段 ····180 小结·························181第4 章服装设计的物化观念与技术思想························· 1854.1 设计物化观决定技术方法论 ···················1874.1.1 物化概念及其技术思想 ··························1874.1.2 功能与形态的辩证统一 ··························1904.1.3 艺术与技术的协同发展 ··························1934.2 服装技术研究的科学观 ························· 1974.2.1 服装形态的构成原理 ·····························1974.2.2 服装结构的表现形式 ·····························2044.2.3 服装技术的系统建构 ····························2064.3 服装技术研究的艺术观 ························· 2094.3.1 服装形态的审美特征 ·····························2104.3.2 服装形态的符号意义 ·····························2124.3.3 服装物化中的技术美 ·····························2164.4 服装技术研究的方法论 ························· 2184.4.1 面向实践的技术原则 ·····························2194.4.2 辩证统一的造物观念 ·····························2214.4.3 艺术赋形的技术观点 ·····························2244.4.4 科学系统的操作程序 ·····························2264.5 服装物化的一般过程 ···························· 2274.5.1 形态分析 ··········2294.5.2 功能分析 ··········2294.5.3 材料分析 ··········2304.5.4 结构分析 ··········2314.5.5 纸样设计 ··········2314.5.6 工艺设计 ··········2324.5.7 样衣试制 ··········2334.5.8 综合评价 ··········2334.5.9 系列纸样 ··········2344.5.10 生产应用 ·········234 小结·························235第5 章服装形态的构成原理及相关实验··············· 2395.1 实验概述 ········· 2405.1.1 实验目的及意义 ···································2415.1.2 实验内容与方法 ···································2425.1.3 实验手段及步骤 ···································2425.2 人体图像采集与测量 ···························· 2445.2.1 人体图像采集 ····2445.2.2 人体图形归纳 ····2455.2.3 人体图形测量 ····2475.2.4 测量数据分析 ····2475.3 领型结构原理与计算 ···························· 2485.3.1 领圈的构成原理与计算 ··························2485.3.2 领子的构成原理与变化规律 ····················251 5.3.3 关于领子松量的计算 ·····························2555.3.4 领型结构原理在制图中的应用 ·················2605.4 袖型结构原理与计算 ···························· 2635.4.1 袖型结构原理解析 ································2635.4.2 袖山结构原理与计算 ·····························2645.4.3 袖窿结构原理与计算 ·····························2655.4.4 肩线的倾斜量与计算 ·····························2675.5 衣身结构原理与计算 ···························· 2695.5.1 人体截面形态分析 ································2705.5.2 人体数学模型的构建与测量 ····················272 5.5.3 服装应用制图的生成与计算 ····················275小结·························280第6 章服装系统设计方法的构建及应用················· 2836.1 服装系统设计过程整合 ························· 2846.1.1 系统设计过程模型的构架 ·······················2856.1.2 系统设计过程的运行模式 ·······················2866.1.3 系统设计过程模型的整合 ·······················2876.1.4 系统设计过程模型的应用 ·······················2896.2 服装系统设计案例分析 ························· 2906.2.1 设计准备阶段 ····2906.2.2 设计创意阶段 ····3016.2.3 设计物化阶段 ····3146.2.4 设计完成阶段 ····320 小结·························321第7 章结论······· 3237.1 系统化是设计发展的客观要求 ················ 3257.2 程序化是设计过程的有效机制 ················ 3267.3 艺术化是服装技术的最高境界 ················ 3277.4 科学化是设计方法的必然趋势 ················ 327参考文献················ 329 附录A ··················· 336 附录B ··················· 346 附录C ··················· 353 附录D ··················· 358 附录E ··················· 359 附录F ··················· 361 后记······················ 367

图书目录

第1章绪论 ·······001 1.1 研究背景及意义 ··································004 1.1.1 从“量体裁衣”到系统设计 ····················005 1.1.2 服装系统设计研究的理论价值 ·················007 1.1.3 构建系统设计方法的实践意义 ·················010 1.2 研究内容及理论基础 ····························012 1.2.1 一般系统论思想 ···································013 1.2.2 设计过程理论 ····016 1.2.3 传统造物观念 ····019 1.3 研究思路与基本观点 ····························023 1.3.1 设计总体上是一个逻辑的过程 ·················023 1.3.2 整体观念是设计过程的核心 ····················026 1.3.3 科学化是设计方法发展的趋势 ·················027 1.4 国内外研究现状分析 ····························030 1.4.1 国外研究现状 ····030 1.4.2 国内研究现状 ····034 1.4.3 存在问题分析 ····036 1.5 研究方法及论文组织 ····························036 1.5.1 研究方法 ··········036 1.5.2 继承与创新 ·······038 1.5.3 内容组织 ··········039 第2 章服装设计的一般过程及知识框架······················· 043 2.1 设计过程的概念辨析 ···························· 044 2.1.1 设计与过程 ·······045 2.1.2 过程与阶段 ·······046 2.1.3 阶段与程序 ·······048 2.2 服装系统设计的构成要素 ······················ 049 2.2.1 设计对象与产品定义 ·····························050 2.2.2 设计问题与设计内容 ·····························052 2.2.3 设计原则与设计任务 ·····························054 2.2.4 设计知识与设计流程 ·····························058 2.2.5 设计创意与技术实现 ·····························061 2.2.6 设计评价与方案优化 ·····························064 2.3 服装系统设计的相关研究 ······················ 067 2.3.1 服装功能与属性 ···································068 2.3.2 服装形态与元素 ···································071 2.3.3 服装结构与工艺 ···································074 2.3.4 服装色彩与材料 ···································077 2.3.5 设计艺术与科学技术 ·····························083 2.3.6 设计观与方法论 ···································085 2.4 服装系统设计的运行模式 ······················ 089 2.4.1 串行模式 ··········091 2.4.2 并行模式 ··········093 2.4.3 循环模式 ··········094 2.4.4 系统模式 ··········095 2.5 服装系统设计的一般过程 ······················ 096 2.5.1 任务分析与目标确认 ·····························097 2.5.2 设计调研与资料收集 ·····························099 2.5.3 需求分析与产品定位 ·····························101 2.5.4 设计创意与视觉表达 ·····························104 2.5.5 设计评价与方案优化 ·····························106 2.5.6 结构设计与纸样制作 ·····························107 2.5.7 工艺设计与样衣试制 ·····························109 2.5.8 综合评价与生产准备 ····························· 110 2.5.9 批量生产与市场反馈 ····························· 111 小结························· 111 第3 章服装创意的理论基础与生成机制························ 115 3.1 创意理论的产生与发展 ························· 117 3.1.1 创意概念的内涵 ··································· 117 3.1.2 创意方法的研究 ··································· 119 3.1.3 服装创意的本质 ···································121 3.2 服装创意的相关理论 ···························· 122 3.2.1 “魔岛”与“万花筒”理论 ····················123 3.2.2 “拼图”与“组合”理论 ·······················125 3.2.3 “迁移”与“变通”理论 ······················126 3.2.4 等价转换理论 ····127 3.3 服装创意的基本方法 ··························· 130 3.3.1 集思广益的智力激励法 ··························130 3.3.2 科学理性的特征列举法 ·························132 3.3.3 变陌生为熟悉的综摄法 ··························134 3.3.4 由设问引发创意的核对单法 ····················137 3.3.5 基于系统观的形态分析法 ·······················138 3.3.6 师法自然的生物模拟法 ··························140 3.3.7 感性工学之语义微分法 ·························141 3.4 服装创意的思维特征 ···························· 144 3.4.1 感性与理性的结合 ································145 3.4.2 发散与收敛的循环 ································147 3.4.3 直觉与灵感的捕捉 ································150 3.4.4 联想与想象的延伸 ································152 3.4.5 综合与系统的梳理 ································156 3.5 服装创意的生成机制 ···························· 157 3.5.1 服装创意的素材 ···································158 3.5.2 服装创意的条件 ···································160 3.5.3 服装创意的原理 ···································162 3.5.4 服装创意的引导 ···································169 3.6 服装创意的一般过程 ···························· 173 3.6.1 提出问题阶段 ····174 3.6.2 创意酝酿阶段 ····175 3.6.3 创意孵化阶段 ····176 3.6.4 创意完成阶段 ····177 3.6.5 创意完善阶段 ····179 3.6.6 创意表达阶段 ····180 小结·························181 第4 章服装设计的物化观念与技术思想························· 185 4.1 设计物化观决定技术方法论 ···················187 4.1.1 物化概念及其技术思想 ··························187 4.1.2 功能与形态的辩证统一 ··························190 4.1.3 艺术与技术的协同发展 ··························193 4.2 服装技术研究的科学观 ························· 197 4.2.1 服装形态的构成原理 ·····························197 4.2.2 服装结构的表现形式 ·····························204 4.2.3 服装技术的系统建构 ····························206 4.3 服装技术研究的艺术观 ························· 209 4.3.1 服装形态的审美特征 ·····························210 4.3.2 服装形态的符号意义 ·····························212 4.3.3 服装物化中的技术美 ·····························216 4.4 服装技术研究的方法论 ························· 218 4.4.1 面向实践的技术原则 ·····························219 4.4.2 辩证统一的造物观念 ·····························221 4.4.3 艺术赋形的技术观点 ·····························224 4.4.4 科学系统的操作程序 ·····························226 4.5 服装物化的一般过程 ···························· 227 4.5.1 形态分析 ··········229 4.5.2 功能分析 ··········229 4.5.3 材料分析 ··········230 4.5.4 结构分析 ··········231 4.5.5 纸样设计 ··········231 4.5.6 工艺设计 ··········232 4.5.7 样衣试制 ··········233 4.5.8 综合评价 ··········233 4.5.9 系列纸样 ··········234 4.5.10 生产应用 ·········234 小结·························235 第5 章服装形态的构成原理及相关实验··············· 239 5.1 实验概述 ········· 240 5.1.1 实验目的及意义 ···································241 5.1.2 实验内容与方法 ···································242 5.1.3 实验手段及步骤 ···································242 5.2 人体图像采集与测量 ···························· 244 5.2.1 人体图像采集 ····244 5.2.2 人体图形归纳 ····245 5.2.3 人体图形测量 ····247 5.2.4 测量数据分析 ····247 5.3 领型结构原理与计算 ···························· 248 5.3.1 领圈的构成原理与计算 ··························248 5.3.2 领子的构成原理与变化规律 ····················251 5.3.3 关于领子松量的计算 ·····························255 5.3.4 领型结构原理在制图中的应用 ·················260 5.4 袖型结构原理与计算 ···························· 263 5.4.1 袖型结构原理解析 ································263 5.4.2 袖山结构原理与计算 ·····························264 5.4.3 袖窿结构原理与计算 ·····························265 5.4.4 肩线的倾斜量与计算 ·····························267 5.5 衣身结构原理与计算 ···························· 269 5.5.1 人体截面形态分析 ································270 5.5.2 人体数学模型的构建与测量 ····················272 5.5.3 服装应用制图的生成与计算 ····················275小结·························280 第6 章服装系统设计方法的构建及应用················· 283 6.1 服装系统设计过程整合 ························· 284 6.1.1 系统设计过程模型的构架 ·······················285 6.1.2 系统设计过程的运行模式 ·······················286 6.1.3 系统设计过程模型的整合 ·······················287 6.1.4 系统设计过程模型的应用 ·······················289 6.2 服装系统设计案例分析 ························· 290 6.2.1 设计准备阶段 ····290 6.2.2 设计创意阶段 ····301 6.2.3 设计物化阶段 ····314 6.2.4 设计完成阶段 ····320 小结·························321 第7 章结论······· 323 7.1 系统化是设计发展的客观要求 ················ 325 7.2 程序化是设计过程的有效机制 ················ 326 7.3 艺术化是服装技术的最高境界 ················ 327 7.4 科学化是设计方法的必然趋势 ················ 327 参考文献················ 329 附录A ··················· 336 附录B ··················· 346 附录C ··················· 353 附录D ··················· 358 附录E ··················· 359 附录F ··················· 361 后记······················ 367