花甲自驾巴尔干

01 东欧巴尔干自驾游的策划·················································· 001

与那片土地相联系的久远记忆················································ 001

上策仍属自驾游····························································· 003

推敲出发城市和选择租车公司 ················································ 004

规划游览线路 ······························································ 005

海外加盟的老旅伴·························································· 006

选择一路的住宿地点························································· 007

那边的流通货币好复杂······················································ 008

02 萨格勒布初识巴尔干风采 ················································· 010

布置熟悉新座驾····························································· 010

萨格勒布第一印象·························································· 012

03 申根圈的新丁斯洛文尼亚················································· 018

卢布尔雅那“遭遇战”························································· 018

“龙城”的早晨······························································ 022

卢布尔雅那城堡···························································· 023

布莱德湖前世今生 ·························································· 025

“二战”最后的杀戮场 ······················································· 028

04 多瑙河畔咫尺地狱天堂··················································· 030

傍晚初访哈尔施塔特 ························································ 030

天堂里的清晨······························································· 033

人间地狱瓦豪集中营························································· 035

你好，蓝色的多瑙河 ························································· 036

偶遇叙利亚难民 ··························································· 042

05 无限风光帝都维也纳 ····················································· 045

“早鸟”独享美泉宫 ························································ 046

漫卷美景和美食····························································· 048

音乐巨匠大本营 ···························································· 050

精疲力竭，意犹未尽 ························································· 051

品尝奥地利“农家乐”························································ 056

06 一步一个世界遗产的捷克 ················································ 059

幸运的克鲁姆洛夫古城 ······················································ 059

平民世遗霍拉索维采村 ······················································ 061

泰尔奇古城 ······························································· 063

惊世骇俗的库特纳霍拉人骨教堂 ············································· 065

“欧洲第二浪漫都市”布拉格 ················································ 067

露天雕像展廊查理大桥 ····················································· 074

号称世界最大的布拉格城堡 ················································· 076

继续鉴赏项链上的一颗颗明珠 ··············································· 080

07 波兰，怎一个沉重了得 ··················································· 085

人间炼狱奥斯维辛 ·························································· 085

浸透悲情的波兰历史 ························································ 090

老同志的青旅体验 ·························································· 094

华沙掠影 ·································································· 096

旅游观念的“代沟” ························································· 103

波兰古都克拉科夫 ························································· 105

地下深宫维利奇卡盐矿 ····················································· 109

08 穿越斯洛伐克··························································· 112

号称面积最大的斯必斯基古堡················································ 113

现实版迪士尼睡美人波耶尼切城堡 ··········································· 118

布拉迪斯拉发出彩的小人物 ················································· 121

奶豆腐的回忆 ····························································· 123

09 陪都布达佩斯也精彩 ···················································· 127

另类景点红色雕塑园 ······················································· 128

布达把酒赏大河 ···························································· 129

在佩斯漫步走过历史 ······················································· 133

布达佩斯遇到北京乡亲 ····················································· 139

10 南斯拉夫最后的遗产塞尔维亚 ············································ 142

历史迷雾中的塞尔维亚，GPS 也犯晕 ········································· 143

同胞洒在这里的鲜血 ······················································· 145

上演着历史的贝尔格莱德 ··················································· 146

斯图代尼察修道院 ·························································· 152

罗慕利亚纳的加莱里乌斯宫怀古 ············································· 154

11 见证故事发生地罗马尼亚 ················································ 159

塞罗边关所见 ······························································ 159

漫谈南斯拉夫前世今生 ······················································ 161

秀丽的霍雷祖修道院························································· 163

吸血鬼城堡的传说和现实 ···················································· 166

盖棺难断齐奥塞斯库 ······················································· 169

好大一个布加勒斯特 ······················································· 171

12 历尽沧桑的保加利亚浪漫依然 ············································· 178

在瓦尔纳与黑海再重逢 ······················································ 180

“第三罗马”大特尔诺沃 ···················································· 182

另类景点飞碟大会堂 ························································ 185

保加利亚国家名片——玫瑰 ················································· 190

智慧女神之城索菲亚 ······················································· 195

保加利亚国宝里拉修道院···················································· 199

13 勇闯“禁区”之科索沃 ···················································· 208

塞尔维亚族特区格拉查尼察修道院 ··········································· 210

普里什蒂纳见闻 ···························································· 212

14 勇闯“禁区”之马其顿······················································ 215

大旗飘飘雕像林立的斯科普里 ··············································· 215

淡淡地美丽着的奥赫里德 ··················································· 219

15 勇闯“禁区”之阿尔巴尼亚 ················································ 223

回忆与现实令人感慨 ························································ 223

今日阿尔巴尼亚匆匆一瞥 ··················································· 226

16 风水轮流转到了黑山 ····················································· 230

黑山的一串海边明珠 ······················································· 234

青葱波德戈里察 ··························································· 242

黑山的山 ································································· 244

“桥”的那座桥 ···························································· 247

一路艰难险阻 ···························································· 251

17 瓦尔特曾经保卫的地方你还好吗 ·········································· 254

集诺贝尔奖、世遗和电影题材于一身的维舍格勒 ································ 255

唯一一次超速罚单 ························································· 260

终于见证萨拉热窝 ························································· 262

莫斯塔尔的风景线 ·························································· 270

18 依依难舍克罗地亚 ······················································ 274

现实的“君临城”杜布罗夫尼克 ··············································· 276

斯普利特和特罗吉尔 ······················································· 283

压轴大戏“欧洲九寨沟” ····················································· 288

重逢萨格勒布难说再见 ······················································